Read this slideshow on allure.com here.
Cherry red lips and supershiny updos mirrored Jason Wu’s sexy—but strong—collection of sensual lace and tulle with tough leather and spiked accents.
“It’s inspired by [the images of photographer] Helmut Newton,” explained hairstylist Odile Gilbert. “Expensive and elegant, but not vulgar, updos with a masculine side and feminine side.”
Odile smoothed Kérastase Elixir Ultime Oléo-Complexe into hair for a glossy, wet texture, then made a deep side part. After sectioning off the hair just before the ear, she sculpted the front portion into a finger wave that added a ladylike element to the look.
She twisted the hair into a tight French braid, rolled the braid under itself toward the head, and secured it with U-shaped pins. She finished with a generous dose of Kérastase Resistance Double Force Multi-protective Spray.
“She’s a very strong, sexy woman—very bold,” makeup artist Diane Kendal said of the fierce brows and vibrant red mouth she created to keep the Helmut Newton vibe going.
Kendal evened out the models’ complexions with foundation and blended M.A.C. Taupe Shape Powder Blush into the hollows of the cheeks to contour the face. Rosy blush applied to the apples added a healthy pop of color.
Kendal filled in brows with M.A.C. Brow Fluidline using short, feathered strokes to make them look “boyish.”
She brushed M.A.C. Pigment Colour Powder in Golden Lemon onto the lids, blended M.A.C. Taupe Shape Powder Blush into the crease, and defined the models’ lash lines with a thin, elongated stroke of M.A.C. Black Crème Liner.
To create the “very bright, feminine lip,” Kendal used a combination of six products. She applied M.A.C. Lip Pencil in Cherry to the entire mouth, then darkened the outer edges with M.A.C. Lip Pencil in Vino. Using her fingertips, she blended three pink lip colors—M.A.C. Lady at Play Mineralize Rich Lipstick, M.A.C. Lush Life Mineralize Rich Lipstick, and M.A.C. Pro Process Magenta Lipmix—onto the center of the mouth. She finished with a light dusting of M.A.C. Pigment Colour Powder in Neo-Orange to set the color.