Read this post on allure.com here.
With references to techno butterflies, Courtney Love, and pretty, shiny things, we knew we were in for some gorgeous—and just a touch weird—makeup at Paris Fashion Week. Here, my five favorite looks and how they were created.
Bejeweled eyes at Dior. When Raf Simons told makeup artist Pat McGrath that the theme of his Spring 2013 was techno butterflies, she practically flew away with the idea. She applied on bright purple, blue, green, and turquoise shades on the lids in an soft winged shape, then framed the top of the eye with a stroke of black liner and mascara. To keep the look, “young and fun,” she topped the lids with Swarovski crystals in coordinating colors. It’s “the way that girls are today,” she said, “They’re not really about minimal.”
Icy silver eyes at Chanel. “Karl wanted something shiny,” creative director of Chanel makeup Peter Phillips said about the models’ onyx-rimmed, platinum eyes. “Just to make sure that the eyes don’t disappear,” Phillips lined the eyes with Chanel Èbéne Stylo Yeux Waterproof Long-Lasting Eyeliner, extending it slightly past the outer corners. Then, he spread silver metallic cream shadow over the lids up to the browbone and along the lower lashline, and layered on a matching loose pigment. He finished by curling the lashes and brushing on three coats of Chanel Inimitable mascara.
Haute couture grunge at Dries Van Noten. Inspired by ‘90s grunge icons, like Courtney Love and Kurt Cobain, Phillips created bold pink lip. “Fuchsia has a bit more punk feeling than the red,” he said, “Fuchsia is a bit more street.” He lined the lips with Chanel Fuchsia Lip Liner, then added Chanel Rouge Allure Velvet in L’Exubérante. on top. Phillips also paled down the skin with Chanel Pro Vitalumière Concealer where needed and dusted on a layer of powder to give the skin a “satin finish.”
Flash of teal at Stella McCartney. “[McCartney] loved the idea of using the turquoise in the eye,” McGrath said. After applying foundation and a peachy blush to the apples of the cheeks, McGrath lined the bottom inner rims of the eyes with a creamy teal pencil. She finished the look with a touch of black mascara on the upper lashline and black mascara on the top lashes.
Copper cat eye at Chloé. Makeup artist Diane Kendal created a “very modern version of the sixties” with a metallic copper winged eye. She applied M.A.C. Smoked Paprika Eye Shadow on the lid, extending it just past the outer corners. Then, she brushed M.A.C. Copper Sparkle Pigmentover the shadow. She defined the eyes with a bit of black cream liner on the upper lashline and left the lashes bare.
Reporting by Sophia Panych
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PHOTO: FAIRCHILD ARCHIVE