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With breezy waves at J. Mendel, unfussy braids at Balmain, and lower-than-low ponytails at Rochas, the spring runways were all about natural, undone hair. It was roughed up, not too perfect, and still crazy-pretty. Better yet, the styles are so simple that they won’t drive you crazy when you attempt them yourself. Here, our top ten looks for spring 2013.
SICILIAN TWISTS AT DOLCE & GABBANA
“It’s about the scarf,” Guido said of the hair at Dolce & Gabbana, “like how a woman would just pin her hair up [and] put a scarf on.” He began by applying Redken Aerate 08 Bodifying Cream-Mousse to the hair and blow-drying it straight back, removing any hint of a part. He placed the scarf around the head about an inch from the hairline and tied it off-center at the nape of the neck, letting the ends skim the shoulders. He rolled the hair up as if he was going to do a French twist, instead folding the ends under to form a loop, and fanned the hair out on top of the head. “There’s a little indication of the ’60s. [There is] a little Riviera feeling,” he said.
TOUSLED, SIDE-SWEPT KNOTS AT MARNI
Hairstylist Paul Hanlon wanted the disheveled buns at Marni to look “very organic [and] very real—almost like a girl has just walked into a fitting.” He began by misting on Tigi Bed Head Superstar Queen for a Day Thickening Spray
and blow-drying the hair. He created a deep side part, gently sweeping the hair against the forehead and fastening it at the nape of the neck. He divided the ponytail in two sections, sprayed both with L’Oréal Paris Elnett Satin Hairspray,
and teased them for a “slept-in texture.” He tucked one section under and wrapped the other section around the base of the ponytail. He finished the look by tugging at the knot so that it wouldn’t look “too clean.”
NATURAL WAVES AT J. MENDEL
J. Mendel makes elegant dress-up clothes, but the hair this season was relaxed and unfussy. “They’re not barrel curls,” hairstylist Orlando Pita said of the “flat and natural-looking” waves he gave the models. He parted the hair down the middle, smoothed the front section with Phyto Professional Workable Holding Spray, and then pushed the hair behind the ears. Starting just under the ears, he ran a flatiron over one-inch sections of hair, rotating it both toward and away from the head to create soft waves. He tamed frizz with Phyto 7 Daily Hydrating Botanical Cream.
GOLD ACCENTS AT BALENCIAGA
It’s “very natural,” hairstylist Guido said of the ethereal look at Balenciaga, “but I still wanted it to feel very modern and rich.” In the front, he parted the hair simply down the middle and drew two sections back, pinning them at the crown. He then secured “twisted gold” metal hairpieces to the back of the head, right above the pinned section, to finish the style.
ARCHITECTURAL LOOPS AT GUCCI
Model Marina Schiano, who had her heyday in the ’70s, inspired hairstylist Luigi Murenu to create this structural updo with “oriental sophistication” at Gucci. Murenu applied Kiehl’s Clean-Hold Styling Gel,
parted the hair down the middle, and smoothed John Frieda Frizz-Ease Hair Serum Original Formula
onto the ends to add shine. He then combed the hair flat against the head and gathered it into a low ponytail, which he rolled under itself to create a loop. He wrapped the loose ends around the base and secured them with U-shaped pins. At the base of the loop, he fastened extensions that had been coated with gel, flatironed, and cut at an angle before the show. “It’s almost like origami,” he said.
“It’s not polished and it’s not glamorous,” McKnight said of the sporty braid at Balmain. He got the look by roughly drying the hair and spraying it with Pantene Pro-V Classic Style Hairspray.
He braided the hair and secured it with a thick black elastic, then added a second elastic at the base of the neck. To make the hair look “lived in,” he pulled out random sections around the ears.
PEARL-ADORNED CHIGNONS AT CHANEL
McKnight said the not “too overgroomed” buns at Chanel reflected the organic, natural feel of Karl Lagerfeld’s spring show. McKnight prepped the hair with Fekkai Coiff Bouffant Lifting and Texturizing Spray Gel
(“just to give [the hair] some bite”) then parted it down the middle and gathered it into a low ponytail. He split the hair into three pieces, crossed the two outer sections, and fastened an elastic just under the crisscross. He rolled the tail under and pinned it in place. He finished by adding a large pearl at the base of the knot to mirror the pearls that were featured heavily in the collection.
ROUGHED-UP TEXTURE AT LANVIN
To create a tousled, sexy texture at Lanvin, Guido misted the hair with water then roughly blow-dried it. He sprayed the roots with Redken Quick Tease 15, made a deep side part, and teased the thicker half with a Mason Pearson hairbrush. He pushed the hair behind the ears and finished by blasting just the front with hair spray.
At Versace, Guido created a “prettified” version of the models’ natural hair texture. “It should feel very effortless, but kind of very cool-girl,” he said. He misted the hair with water, raked Redken Guts 10 Root Targeted Volume Spray Foam
through it, and roughly dried it. He center parted the hair—not too precisely—and twisted it into a knot to give the hair “natural movement.” To nix shine and add thickness, Guido blasted the bun with Redken Powder Refresh 01 Aerosol Hair Powder/Dry Shampoo
dry shampoo. Just before the models hit the runway, he unpinned the knot and added a final dose of dry shampoo.
ULTRALOW PONYTAILS AT ROCHAS
To complement the scarves in the Rochas collection, hairstylist Eugene Souleiman decided on superlow ponytails. He parted the hair down the center, misted it with Wella Professionals Ocean Spritz Beach Texture Hairspray,
and blow-dried it straight with a round brush. To lock in the “supernaturally straight” style, he then flatironed it. He pulled the hair into a very loose ponytail, letting the top portion of the ponytail fan out so that the hair looked like it had been cut into a bob from the front. “My favorite thing about it is that it’s one of those looks that’s so normal, it’s really abnormal,” Souleiman said.